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Article: The Dark Suit

Tumma puku

The Dark Suit

The dress code “dark suit” is traditionally one of the most formal dress codes, used often at weddings and other formal occasions. A “dark suit” usually refers to a dark blue or black suit, with a plain surfaced or at most, a subtly patterned fabric.

The suit jacket

The suit lapel is typically a “notch” one or the more distinguishable “peak” lapel. The jacket is usually two buttoned, but a one button or three buttoned (with 3-roll-2) serve the purpose as well. The pockets of a dark suit should preferably be with a flap or jetted ones. The suit can be also a three piece one, with a waistcoat made in the same fabric as the suit. Another elegant way to stand out is to go for a double breasted dark suit.


When it comes to the shirt, a white shirt with french cuffs is usually the best option. The shirt fabric should be plain or with a subtle pattern. A few elegant alternatives for the shirt collar are cutaway and windsor collars. Additionally, the front of the shirt is usually a simple “plain front” , but a ‘”button placket” or a “hidden front”  are also alternatives worth considering.


Schoffa's ready-to-wear dark suits from €690 - explore our collection.



Traditionally a dark suit is accompanied by a grey or silver-grey tie made of silk with a delicate sheen. The tie can be plain or with a subtle pattern. Bow ties, ascots etc. do not traditionally go together with the “dark suit” dress code. However, these could be combined with a dark blue suit on a tad more casual occasion.

Pocket square

The classic pocket square choice for a dark suit is white, the fabric can be silk, linen or cotton. When it comes to folding the pocket square, go with a James Bondesque “tv fold”, this works best with a crisp linen or cotton pocket square. Go with a more liberal “puff”  fold if you choose the more lively silk alternative (browse pocket squares here.)


Traditionally a dark suit is combined with plain black “Oxford” shoes. Subtly patterned shoes such as quarter brogues might be also an option as long as they are not too casual. The shoes should be polished and in good condition. If the weather is rainy or snowy and you are walking outside, an overshoe / galosh is recommended to protect your shoes (see our alternatives here). Your socks should match the shade of your suit (black or dark blue).

Belt or suspenders

If you wear a belt, make sure it’s a black leather belt with a discreet buckle. Suspenders are also an elegant choice for a more formal attire. If you have a made-to-measure suit you can choose to have it with side-adjusters that hold your trousers in place instead of a belt or suspenders (see our belt and suspenders here).


Please find the Schoffa suit collection here.

With stylish regards,

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